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| Written by Administrator | |
| Thursday, 21 August 2008 23:12 | |
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That “Spanish Tinge”... That’s what Jelly Roll Morton insisted was the crucial ingredient in good Jazz (and good Creole cookin’ too!). We’ve just acquired a small but intense selection of Spanish Reds that up the ante considerably in quality, value and packaging: Traditional Riojas have always been been favorites of discerning WINE EXPO-isti and we have seven wonderful bottlings for you but also selections from Ribera del Duero, several amazing “bang for the buck” reds from La Mancha, Penedes, Valencia, Catalunya and other far flung DOs plus some fun Cavas. Would a Chorizo and Walnut stuffed roast turkey be too weird for your next Thanksgiving dinner? Well, at least lay out some Jamon de Serrano and some nice olives for your arriving guests and watch the smiles erupt and the conversation take off.
Agrícola Castellana, La Seca, Castilla e León This bodega, located in the heart of the D.O. Rueda, was founded in 1935 in the town of La Seca (Valladolid) by a group of thirty winegrowers tired of the abuses committed by the owners of wine stores and export companies who would adulterate their wines before sale to increase their margins. Today Castellana has 300 members from all over the region where more than 2,000 has (hectares) are cultivated along with modern vinification and cellaring installations. Castellana has always been successful in Spain but now also enjoys strong sales in Germany, Denmark, Holland, Switzerland, Sweden, Japan, Mexico, Nicaragua, England and the US. While the economies of scale of this large cooperative are the secret to their great value, the secret to their outstanding quality is their unique setting: the vines sit atop a plateau at 730 meters above sea level where they are exposed to long winters and fairly extreme ranges of temperature between night and day even during the warmer growing season. The soil is filled with small pieces of limestone which allow for excellent drainage and encourage the roots to delve deeply into the mesa in search of nutrients and minerals (think Graves or Chateauneuf). Agrícola Castellana Tempranillo Tinto Caballero de Castilla 2007, Vino Tierra de Castilla y León $8.99 The 2004 version of this was quite a hit here several years ago (and at $9.99 as a victim of both the weak dollar and two people between us and the Bodega) so, when we had a chance to bring some in direct we jumped at it. Classic Tempranillo, this wine has bright red fruit, a hint of spice and a good dose of licorice on the nose, is fun and drinkable and will play well with a wide variety of foods. Check out the Rosado version as well when you need extra refreshment but still want juicy red wine flavors.
Bodega San Martin, San Martin de Unx, Navarra This is a small, very quality oriented coop founded in 1914 which now has 275 grower members tending 800 hectares of vines with an average age of 25 years that are situated 600 meters above sea level and planted to mostly Garnacha and Tempranillo with a small parcels of Cabernet and Merlot. The wines are intensely flavored with big, bold textures and can stand up to quite hearty foods yet are amazingly affordable. Bodega San Martin Tinto Isolda 2007, Navarra Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! 70% Tempranillo / 20% Garnacha / 5% Cabernet / 5% Merlot, fermented in steel and bottled directly to preserve the zesty fruit, this is just plain fun and has a beautiful label besides. Bodega San Martin Tinto Senorio de Unx 2004, Navarra Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! This Hunx a Hunx ‘o Burnin’ Love is 80% Tempranillo / 20% Garnacha that saw a year’s sojourn in American oak giving it a much bigger mouthfeel and flavors ranging from red berries and vanilla to earthier, smokier and spicier tones perfect for hearty Mediterranean, Asian or Latin cuisines.
Jaun de Alzate de Bodegas Loli Casado, Lapuebla de Labarca, Rioja Alavesa "First the founder, then the son, now the granddaughter, Loli, heir to a tradition that the passage of time has transformed into a passion for a way of life and feeling for the earth where wine is culture and culture feeds the tradition." That is the mission statement of this 75 year old winery (most of whose vines are that old as well!) in the heart of La Rioja. It's working! Situated between 360 and 400 meters elevation the vineyards (85% Tempranillo with small sections of Mazuelo and Graciano) are terraced into the hillsides with the best southern exposure for maximum dosage of sunlight. After harvest and fermentation, the wines are matured in older barriques placed deep into caves cut into the hillsides. Jaun de Alzate Graciano 2006, Rioja Alavesa $23.99 Graciano is a plump, meaty and juicy variety that is usually blended into Rioja to up the bumptuality factor. Some of you may have unwittingly consumed some when you bought a bottle of Sardegnan Cagnulari here and it may even be closely related to our beloved Tintillia from Molise. At any rate, on its own, it is a fun alternative to Syrah / Montepulciano / Zin whenever some hungry man food needs a hand at the table.
Jaun de Alzate Riserva 2001, Rioja Alavesa $31.99 Jaun de Alzate Gran Reserva 1995, Rioja Alavesa Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! Tempranillo 90 %, Mazuelo 5% and Graciano 5% from 60 - 80 year old vines, all co-fermented (without crushing the fruit first) in stainless steel tanks for three weeks with the must being slowly pumped up over the skins. The wines are then matured in fresh oak barrels for a short time then sent to the caves in older barrels for long seasoning (up to four years) before bottling. In the glass these silky smooth wines have a cherry red color with brick edges and is rich in perfumes of stewed black fruits, leather, earth, tobacco and spices. Definitively WINE and not fruit juice!
Bodegas Estraunza, Lapuebla de Labarca, Rioja Alavesa This family owned Bodega is located on the banks of the Ebro river in the southernmost part of Rioja Alavesa. They have been bottling their own wines since 1989 after years of selling in bulk. They use caves excavated deep into the local hills in the 17th century by now defunct wineries to store their wines at perfect temperatures.
Solar de Estraunza Rioja Tinto 2008 $14.99 This is the sort of wine the locals drink during three hour lunches with large plates of quality pork products: 100% Tempranillo with half of the grapes put through carbonic maceration (whole berry fermentation in a sealed vessel, the same way they make Beaujolais Nouveau) for intense red fruit aromas and a zesty attack on the palate and the other half vinified normally to provide some balance and a nice dry finish. Solar de Estraunza Rioja Gran Reserva 1999 Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! This is the wise older uncle of the crew: 100% Tempranillo from carefully chosen from the oldest vines and fermented on the skins for an extended period to bring out every last bit of flavor and nuance. The wine is then aged for two years in a mix of American and French oak with an additional three years rest in bottle before release. While big boned and powerful, this gorgeous Gran Reserva has mellowed into a well rounded, smooth operator with lots to say. Give him some air and some big food and let him till his tale...
Viña Solorca, Roa José Victor Balbás Arroyo comes from one of the founding families of the Ribera del Duero DO and set out on his own with this project dedicated to preserving the traditional styles of the zone in 1998. With 72 hectares of old vines, bush trained Tempranillo to work with (average age is 35 years), José and his team are able to carefully choose the best fruit each vintage with and harvest it all by hand for careful vinification and aging.
Viña Solorca Ribera del Duero Cosecha 2006 $14.99
Viña Solorca Ribera del Duero Barrica 2006 Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! These first two are essentially the same wine in two expressions: 100% Tempranillo harvested at optimum ripeness and vinified in steel to prerve the intense black fruit and spice character so typical in this DO. The Cosecha is bright and zesty and perfect for Burgers or BBQ, Pizza or Picnics or the booty from a late night run to your favorite taco truck. The Barrica spends eight months in new American oak, upping its spice factor considerably and also rounds it out a bit. Viña Solorca Ribera del Duero Reserva Gran Solorca 2001 Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! This is a whole 'nother beast: rich and silky, smooth and soothing but packed with an ever unfolding array of nuances: meat, smoke, dried red fruits but also whisps of coffee, chocolate and herbs. This will elevate your basic rotisserie chicken to a higher plane of existence but will really strut its stuff with a nice mixed grill or braised meat dish with some yummy root veggies. Limited, worth it. Enjoy! ¿Su Nuevo Vino de Casa? Gallegas...claro! Bodegas Gallegas Destino Tinto, Galicia $6.99 A sort of Galician cousin to our beloved Brontolo Rosso: a smooth, ultra drinkable red with bright cherry color, spices and fruity notes on the nose and a fleshy, well-balanced and food friendly impression on the palate. Just 11% ABV by volume, nicely packaged and priced to move. Bodegas Gallegas Vicarelo Tinto, Galicia $7.99 Bigger, fuller, deeper but still eminently quaffable, this is a steal (and very nicely packaged as well).... Monte La Reina, Zamora, Castilla y León A modern winery set on an 11th century estate with a 19th century castle hosting an inn and private game reserve, this bodega is pretty much the New Spain in a nutshell. Dedicated to showcasing the various expressions of Tinta de Toro (the Red of the Bull, the local name for Tempranillo), Monte La Reina overlooks the placid fertile plain of the Duero, where the cold of the winter months and the plentiful hours of sunlight, together with the unique qualities of the soil, speak directly to you through the wines. We will be bringing in some of their more serious wines soon but start off with these fun and affordable quaffers: Monte La Reina Tinto Valdecaz, Viño De La Tierra De Castilla $7.99 This rocks! Essentially de-classifed Toro (vines too recently planted to qualify for D.O. status) this is an explosion of dark fruits with an edge of liquorice on the finish and is fabulously balanced with fruit, soft tannins and acidity all in perfect equilibrium – just incredibly drinkable! Monte La Reina Tinto Flamenco Real 2007, Castilla e León $8.99 Bright, sassy, zesty and ready to dance on your tongue just like the Flamenco (which means "flamingo", as in the bird, en Espanol) on the label. Monte la Reina Toro Roble 2006, Zamora Spain Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! We promised you some of the more serious bottlings of this bodega when we brought you the already popular Valdecaz and Flamenco Real and this is the first one. These vineyards stand on hillsides exposed to the evening sun, thus enabling them to make the most of mild evening temperatures and the maximum brightness of the sun, making possible greater extract and color in the skin of the fruit. The grapes are fermented in steel and then aged for five months in a mix of American and French Oak resulting in a rich, smooth texture that underlies a full array of dark fruit (black plums!), spice (juniper and anise), chocolate and tobacco on the palate. This is smooth enough to enjoy on its own but will really shine with a hearty meal (like Thanksgiving for instance). One of the best values on semi-serious red we have offered in recent times. Bodega del Palacio de los Frontaura y Victoria Tinto Dominio de Valdelacasa 2005, Toro $35.00 We are usually VERY suspicious when a wine touts itself as great on the FRONT label. So we took this "Inimitable intense red color, complex hidden aromas, highly refined flavors, lingering, fine and beautiful." (written in capital letters in red on the front label) with a grain or two of salt when we were tasting this at a Spanish wine fair. But, DAMN, they were right! 100% Tinta de Toro (a thick skinned Tempranillo clone) carefully harvested from ancient vines in Pago de Valdecasa near Zamora that has seen six months in French and American oak, this fantastic tinto blasts black raspberry, coconut and vanilla from your glass but has deeper, meatier things lurking underneath. Limited, worth it (and fantastic packaging too)... Allozo de Bodegas Centro Españolas, Tomelloso, La Mancha Allozo is an über modern but small co-operative with fourteen growers tending 243 hectares founded in 1991 with the goal of producing high quality wines at everyday pricing. It’s working! Allozo Tempranilo de Finca la Fuente 2006, Tomelloso, La Mancha $10.99 Allozo Tempranillo Crianza 2003, Tomelloso, La Mancha $14.99 Both 100% Tempranillo with the Crianza seeing a year in a mix of American and French oak. The Finca la Fuente is fresh and lively with bright cherry and spice on the nose and a medium body. The Crianza is more serious (but never heavy) with darker cherry fruit, some tobacco and earth on the nose and a longer, firmer finish. La Raz de Bodegas Araco, Laguardia, Rioja Alavesa Intense pure Tempranillos from a relatively new producer, these bring the taste of Spain's classic varietal to your table without scaring the Merlot and New World Pinot lovers in attendance.... La Raz Tempranillo 2007, Rioja Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! Medium bodied, spicy and fruity, great with casual meals or snacks, this has become a big hit for it's great value for money (looks nice too!). La Raz Tempranillo Reserva 2004, Rioja $33.99 Big, rich, muscular, this one is in full tilt boogie mode and ready for action... Marqués de Caro de Cherubino Valsangiacomo, Valencia Five generations of the Valsangiacomo family (starting with a cantina in Canton Ticino, Switzerland in 1831 then moving to Valencia, Spain in the 1890’s) preceded the current one at this cantina so you can be sure they have a good idea as to what they are doing. Marqués de Caro Tinto Tempranillo 2006, Valencia Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! 100% Tempranillo vinified in stainless steel to preserve its spice and fresh fruit aspects, this has a nice dose of wild red fruits on the nose and just a touch of earthiness on the palate, all leading to a long smooth finish making it extremely versatile at table.
Cherubino Tinto Castillo de Olleria 2007, Valencia Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! A smooth, soft blend of Bobal (75%) and Tempranillo (25%), this wine is much darker and more complex than any sub $10 weeknight quaffer has a right to be. Pair it with something braised or a nice roast bird and imagine you are on holiday in the Spanish countryside.... Duron Ribera del Duero Crianza 2003, Roa Sold Out, Returning Soon! This bodega owns 100 hectares of prime vineyards in the heart of the Ribera del Duero D.O. and all of the wines are estate bottled. During the construction of the winery, an ancient settlement was found which included wine making tools and vessels (that can now be seen in a local museum) thus confirming the choice of location as a good one. Primarily Tempranillo (locally referred to as Tinto Fino) with small additions of Garnacha and Cabernet, this wine has intense fruit (cherry, black currant, plum) along with a full spice box (vanilla, incense, clove) on the nose. Well structured and moderately tannic, it will pair now with grilled meats and roast birds but can age for up to two decades. Gorrebusto, Barriobusto, Rioja This is a small, family owned winery in the heart of the Rioja Alavesa D.O. where the current generation of the Martínez family continues the tradition of their ancestors: take care not to harm la tierra and she will give you good wine in return. Gorrebusto Rioja Jovem 2006 $12.99 The blend here is Tempranillo (86%), Mazuelo (8%), Viura (5%) and Garnacha (1%) fermented on the skins for 22 days in steel then bottle aged 6 months before release. Bright, fresh red fruits and spices dominate here, making it a nice tipple with BBQ, tapas, burgers or picnic fare. Gorrebusto Rioja Crianza 2004 $17.99 This is one of those pure, silky textured, classic Riojas that invite comparison to Burgundy and Barolo: suave, perfumed and with just enough ripe tannins to seal the deal. Tempranillo (90%) and Mazuelo (10%) are fermented in steel tanks with the skins for 22 days then aged 1 year in American oak casks and two years in bottle. Gorrebusto Rioja Especial 2003 $59.99 This special bottling is produced from the very best grapes of the estate’s vineyards (90% Tempranillo / 10% Mazuelo) which are given a long cool fermentation on the skins, aged in small American oak for up to a year then several years in bottle. Unfined and unfiltered, this is quite a mouthful but not overly heavy. Classic Rioja flavors and aromas: tea, tobacco, dried cherries, aged meat, sun baked soil and more. Decant and enjoy!
Don Jacobo de Bodegas Corral, Navarrete, Rioja Founded over 100 years ago, this winery was family owned for four generations into the late 20th century then went public with a stock offering to raise capital and modernize the cellars. The estate has won numerous awards in the Wine Tourism arena as well for their wines and is the site of frequent concerts, tastings and cultural events. Don Jacobo Rioja Crianza 2003, Navarrete $14.99 This is 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, 5% Mazuelo / Graciano that is fermented in steel then aged 15 months in American oak and 8 months in bottle. Rich and mouthfilling with strong flavors of blackberry and plum well integrated with the spice of the oak. Don Jacobo Rioja Reserva 2001, Navarrete $24.99 The same blend as the Crianza but harvested at slightly higher ripeness, the Reserva is fermented in steel then aged 15 months in American oak followed by 15 months in bottle. Deeper and richer with a long smooth finish, this is the value leader of the line.
Don Jacobo Rioja Gran Reserva 1995, Navarrete 44.99! This is 85% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha harvested with strict selection in the vineyard and only produced in top vintages. It is fermented in steel then aged 22 months in American oak plus a minimum of four years in bottle. This vintage has aged at the bodega for eleven years and is in its prime with wonderful aromas of cocoa, tobacco, tea and spices on top of deep meaty flavors. Truly wine, not grape juice!
Solar de Samaniego de Bodegas Alavesas, Laguardia, Rioja La Rioja, situated in the picturesque Ebro valley where you still find medieval villages amongst the vines, olive trees and orchards, is the oldest D.O. in Spain and has a world wide reputation for elegant, earthy, slightly rustic wines. This property, founded in 1972, is owned by the same family as Duron in Ribera del Duero and follows a similar philosophy dedicated to preserving the culture, cuisine and traditions of their zona. This wine comes from their best plot, called La Escobosa and planted to mostly Tempranillo with a small field mixing of Graciano. This land once belonged to and is named for a famous writer of folk tales named Felix Samaniego. Solar de Samaniego Rioja Crianza 2003, Laguardia $17.99 Garnet red with bright edges, this is fresh and lively on all fronts: the nose is full and persistent with red fruits, spices and a hint of vanilla while the palate is rich in ripe red fruit and has a firm tannic grip on the finish (just the thing for some hearty Spanish, Mexican or even Korean or Indian inspired foods). Masía Vallformosa, Vilobí del Penedès ;The bodega as now constituted was founded by Dom José Domenech Torné in the early 1930’s from family holdings dating from 1865. After a total revamping of the vineyards which had been devastated by Phylloxera in the 1880’s then again in battles during the Spanish Civil War, the first Cavas were made with the 1938 vintage. The estate is named for a Romanesque chapel, Santa Maria de Vallformosa, located next to the winery. “Vallformosa” means “a beautiful valley” in Catalan. La Viña Tinto 2007, Catalunya $9.99 The Tinto is a delicious, soft, fruity and spicy melange of Tempranillo (60%), Granacha (30%) and Cariñena (10%) with a portion of the fruit put through carbonic maceration. It was a big hit at many holiday festivities last year, is just plain good with or without food and looks nice on the table as well. Vallformosa Tinto Gran Reserva 2001, Penedès Sold Out, New Vintage Soon! 75% Tempranillo / 25% Cabernet from very old vines, macerated for three weeks during fermentation then aged first for six months in new American oak then 18 months in four year old casks followed by five years in bottle. Prime examples of Penedès Tinto like this manage to merge the elegance of old vine Tempranillo with some of the classic flavors of fine clarets plus they are stellar values. Vidal del Saz Rodríguez, Campo de Criptana, La Mancha, Spain This family owned estate has kept up with advances in technology over its 40 years of winemaking, using that knowledge to make outstanding examples of the traditional local varieties as well as dabble in some International styles. With over 200 hectares under vine (in red limestone soil situated at the foot of a mountain range in the heart of La Mancha called Los Molinos), they have a lot of choice in what goes in the bottle and are fanatical about perfectly matured (but not overripe!) grapes. The fairly extreme climate here (as low as 5° F in the winter and long days above 100° F in the summer with very little rain) is excellent for low yield / high quality wine production. Vidal del Saz Tempranillo Tinto 2006, La Mancha Spain $10.99 100% estate bottled Tempranillo kept on the skins for 18 days, gaining a rich array of spicy red and black fruit flavors before it is mellowed in oak for a further 60 days. The delicious balance of fruit, acidity and tannins make this a very versatile food wine.
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| Last Updated ( Tuesday, 23 February 2010 00:28 ) |


